Isla de Ometepe

Freddie led us to our mountain bikes. “You go here," he pointed up the dirt road, "Then turn right, go eight kilometres, then look for the signs.” “What will the signs say?” asked Reecey. “Ojo de Agua.”

Isla de Ometepe is an island formed by two volcanoes spearing up through Lake Nicaragua. A lava flow from the smaller volcano many years ago created a land bridge between the two.

As we pedalled out from our little place at Chargo Verde, the Nicaraguan countryside meandered past, mostly fields and banana plantations carved out of the rainforest. We were always close to the scree-covered slopes of Conception, the larger volcano whose peak was clouded over for our stay. Conception commanded its own weather patterns. Even when the rest of the sky was a brilliant blue, the winds from the east would form clouds as they coasted up Conception's eastern slope.

To the south, the countryside sloped away into the lake, and then on to the silhouette of the small volcano, Maderas, whose peak was also covered in cloud.

We cycled uphill into a warm breeze. Reecey’s bike had no brakes. Out of a possible 21, mine had two gears, which were unhelpfully 8 and 10 - useful for a flat road but challenging when we started the uphill climb.

I walked my bike uphill. Reecey walked hers downhill.

Reecey made some friends along the way, as I made some running repairs to my bike.

Ojo de Agua means “eye of the water”. Spring water bubbles up into one small round pool, which then flows into a larger pool, surrounded by deck chairs.

The water was almost viscous to swim through, but still very clear. Perhaps a little too clear.

Second take.

We watched as a group of young Ticos swung from a rope, attempting to kick (or head) a soccer ball before splashing into the pool.

The next morning, we paddled into Lake Nicargua in kayaks to get a better view of the volcanos and the island. Our kayaks were (fortunately) in better condition than the mountain bikes.

Rather than paddling to Granada - which we could have done - perhaps after some serious training - we decided to catch this very festive bus named Blue Bird.  It was Christmas Eve after all. Feliz Navidad!